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The Coffee Time donut-and-coffee shop in my neighbourhood appears to have gone out of business. I've been waiting for this some time, as the stretch of Dupont Street in my neighbourhood slowly but surely gentrifies.

My inner toffee-nosed twit is thrilled with this development. I've always hated that Coffee Time. Open nearly 24 hours a day, it was a magnet for every down-and-outer in a five kilometer radius. I walked past it at least twice a day, and every day the same characters would be seated within, hunched over their paper cups of lousy coffee, reading Renter's News and Employment Today. It reeked of misery and quiet desperation. Sometimes loud desperation, in the form of the portly half-shaven guy who used to loiter outside by the newspaper boxes, trying to strike up conversation with passing women. "Hey gorgeous", "Hey beautiful", "Hey good looking."

I guess, in a way, it's sad. It served a purpose: there are no other coffee shops in the neighbourhood, not that I know of anyway, so until the Tim Horton's express place opened up in the shiny new gas station across the street, there was really nowhere else to get a take-out coffee, and certainly nowhere in the immediate vicinity to sit down and have a cuppa, and watch the world go by.

In 2001, when I first moved to the area, I walked down to Dupont to buy a bottle of wine at the LCBO. The clerk who served me, a grandfatherly sort, made conversation as he rang up my purchase: "You're new - I've never seen you before."

"Oh, I just moved here today," I replied.

"From where?"

"Willowdale - Yonge and Sheppard," I said.

He whistled. "It's nice up there. What are you doing down here in the ghetto?" It was hardly a ghetto, but with its garish Coffee Time, abandoned Red Raven restaurant, cut-rate patio furniture place (it had been a Loblaws grocery store), decrepit laundromat, and seedy-looking hamburger joint, Dupont at Davenport was a far cry from the increasingly yuppified and be-condoed suburb I had just left.

However, within months, strange things were afoot in DuDav. In 2001, pastry chef Jenn Stone opened J.S. Bonbons, a designer chocolaterie - she even gives chocolate-making classes. In 2002, the patio-furniture place was torn down and a new, enormous LCBO store was built in its place. The former LCBO store, after standing vacant for well over a year, now houses an upscale furniture shop. The Red Raven was vacant for nearly two years before the Pour House opened its doors. A piano sale/repair store opened next door to J.S. Bonbons last fall: the owners are given to artfully displaying deconstructed pianos in the front window.

And now, Coffee Time has finally given up the ghost. It's the end of an era on Dupont between St. George and Davenport. You read it here first, folks.

Jane Eyre: Oppressed but mad as hell and not gonna take it anymore; outspoken

Francie Nolan: Sensitive city-dweller with literary aspirations

Rachel Walsh: Insecure but bright and funny woman who eventually learns to love herself

Peter Hatcher: Put-upon eldest child

Beatrice Thompson: Spunky optimist

That is what I would call my beach house, if I ever owned one. The cottages on Emerald Isle had the twee-est names, but somehow it works on the beach, where the houses are painted coral pink, seafoam green and sky blue, and all the windows overlook either the ocean or the Bogue Sound. Two If By Sea, The Nineteenth Hole, All Good, Just For the Halibut, Sea-Renity, Barometer Soup, and my personal favourite, 5 O'Clock Somewhere. Phil and I are real estate junkies ("Guess the Asking Price" is a favourite game) so of course we took a look at what was on the market in the neighbourhood. A million American dollars will buy you half of a duplex overlooking the Atlantic ocean. Three bedrooms, 2.5 bathrooms, kitchen, living/dining room, two or three balconies, in a house made of wood that sits on stilts and that will probably blow over in the first hurricane. Pretty pricey for a pile of firewood.

We had a great time. Every morning, before it got too hot, I went running on the beach (I came back dripping anyway). This was a fantasy of mine - running on a treadmill gets boring and choking on smog as I jog around my neighbourhood is not my idea of a good time. Running on the beach is great, except it's much harder work and it's hard to tell how far you've gone. But I was on vacation so who cares.

Then I would have breakfast and read a back issue of National Geographic (the cottage had about thirty years' worth). I don't think I looked at a newspaper the entire time I was there and Phil made his parents turn the news off after five minutes because it was too depressing.

Then I would slather myself in SPF 30 and head down to the beach again to hang out with various members of our 54-person group - aunts, uncles, great-aunts and great-uncles, cousins, boyfriends, girlfriends and friends. Lunch back at the cottage, then back to the beach for more swimming, boogie boarding, sand-castle building, chatting and beer drinking.

A few times, I crashed immediately after dinner, I was so tired. I have never felt so tired on a vacation - a full-body tiredness that just takes over and you have no choice but to give in. Other times Phil and I went for long walks on the beach or sat around drinking gin and tonics on the balcony.

We went to Beaufort twice, a small historic seaside town about thirty minutes away - once for the afternoon, and once with the immediate family for dinner. If the weather hadn't been so gorgeous, we probably would have taken other little day trips to the aquarium, the museums, heritage homes, and other towns and cities in the area, but every day was so beautiful, I wanted to spend it on the beach.

I took over 200 pictures. I will be posting selections from different parts of the trip in photo albums on the left of this page. Enjoy!

The recently re-opened Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) is overwhelming. Not only is the place filled with sculpture, photos, drawings, paintings, and film, it's filled with people. Lots and lots of people. Many of them are wearing questionable clothing. Is it art? Exhibits A and B: a protest against the traditional repression of undergarments? MOMA: set your undergarments free MOMA: slow down so I can get a picture of your crazy outfit! Exhibit C: an upturned collar ruins the transcendent beauty of this Rothko piece. collar ruins Rothko This last shot is a brilliant juxtaposition of fishnet stockings and horizontal art. Another museum visitor saw me taking the picture and proceeded to lift his own leg while studying the floor. MOMA leg art

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